For the most part our recent mini travel guides have mostly focused on larger cities, so when Alice got in touch to offer to take us on a tour of her Devon market town we jumped at the chance to showcase an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. I haven’t been to Totnes for many years but reading Alice’s comments has got me itching to go back to the west country. Over to Alice…
Unofficially twinned with Narnia and Area 51, Nevada, the small town of Totnes has a reputation as being ‘alternative’ to say the least. But even with its distinctly bohemian vibe, it’d be wrong to dismiss it as all ’tie dye and unicorn healing’ (yes, that’s an actual thing.)
Set in the heart of Devon countryside (think rolling green fields that would put the Ambrosia custard adverts to shame); nestled between the South Devon coast (long sandy beaches and hidden coves) and the striking beauty of Dartmoor (rocky Tors, raging rivers, stone circles and wild ponies) Totnes itself is stunningly beautiful, boasting the most listed buildings per head than any other town in the UK, there’s even a 10th century Castle and a Tudor arch in the centre of town.
Time Magazine declared Totnes the ‘capital of New Age chic’ whilst Highlife, British Airways magazine, voted it one of the world’s Top 10 Funky Towns, and with good reason. The atmosphere is a successful marriage of funky chic with new age utopia all in beautiful surroundings.
Shopping
All that aside, for me, one of the main draws is the shopping. With over 200 independent shops in the town centre, the lack of an M&S or Primark is the gain of small, stylish boutiques and some seriously funky gift shops. On market days the square is bustling with quirky local produce from cheese to hand-made soap, wood whittled things to steam punk accessories. You’re bound to find lots of things you never knew you wanted. Believe me.
You will feel the need for a spot of people watching. Watching, not staring. No high street Costas (there was a petition to keep them away!) But plenty of quaint tea rooms with amazing cakes, homely vegetarian restaurants and trendy organic coffee houses to explore.
Or if the sun is shining, grab a takeout and head up to explore Leechwell Gardens, an open garden full of beautiful planting, play areas, sculptures and rock pools. Wander behind the gardens to find the Leechwell, one of the most ancient wells in Devon. Thought to have healing properties the three ancient springs flow into troughs, often decorated with trinkets and prayer flags and the odd vagrant.
The secret to getting the most from Totnes is to search for the unexpected – not exactly a tall order in this town. The main street holds a majority of the shops but it’s worth exploring the side streets for hidden gems; like the grade one listed Guildhall tucked behind the church. Instagram worthy to say the least.
At the bottom of town, cross the bridge (stopping to check out Vire Island, another great picnic spot) follow the river Dart to Steamer Quay, offering walks along the picturesque river and into the open countryside or take a river boat to Dartmouth 6 miles downstream.
The other end of town has an easy access path through woodland to Dartington Hall, a 1,200 acre country estate specialising in arts, social justice and sustainability. Set in breath taking grounds, the gardens are full of sculptures. With woodland and river walks to enjoy, the estate is open to the public with the request of a small donation. On a warm summer evening sit on the lawn with a tipple from The White Hart, the estate pub and take in the atmosphere, then catch a film in the 14th century Barn cinema.
If another shopping fix is in order, the Dartington Cider Press is famous for the craft shops, food hall, and Cranks restaurant, amongst others. It’s worth a trip later in the year to really get that festive feel; open fires, fabulous decorations, mulled wine, and carollers.
For the Littles
If you happen to be visiting with children, the Rare Breeds Farm is within walking distance from Totnes centre, but as it’s so close to the steam railway, you will get pestered for a trip on that too. It’s worth it, especially if you take the train to the next village, Buckfastleigh, to visit the Butterfly Farm and Otter Sanctuary. Further afield (about 5 miles ) is Pennywell Farm, famous for the teacup pigs. Tea. Cup. Pigs. Seriously, who could resist those?
If fabulous food is on your list then take the short drive to Riverford Farm, the award winning organic veg box folks. The farm shop hosts all manner of organic essentials. (Pesto and dark chocolate are essentials right?) There are plenty of things to do with events and tours or try the Field Kitchen; freshly cooked organic grub served at a shared table in one sitting.
At the top of town, Kingsbridge Road offers the best views of surrounding hills sweeping to the river. Incidentally, if you carry on 2 miles along A381 you might accidentally find yourself at Nkuku, the very fabulous lifestyle store and cafe. That’s happened to me. A lot.
And if all this hasn’t convinced you to visit; on Tuesdays the market stall holders are dressed in full Elizabethan costume… I forget why, but that’s the beauty of Totnes, you stop questioning things and start accepting. Anything goes, even healing unicorns.
Anyone off to Totnes or the surrounding area over the upcoming Easter break? Any other gems you’d like to share around the River Dart?
Quite possibly one of my favourite parts of the world. I’ve been going to nearby East Portlemouth my whole life and despite having visited for some 30 something years there are still things here that I have somehow missed. Dartington Cider press will always hold fond memories as it was where we stopped every year on the way down, and home, from our holiday. In recent years we always make the trip to Totnes to have a mooch around the shops. Some amazing little treats for interiors and I always seem to spend far too much in the toy shop at the top of the hill. So many lovely things. How did I not know Nkuku was there? I will be checking that out this year. I really must try Riverford Farm this year too. The otter sanctuary is a firm favourite with the girls and dare I say it ‘Woodland Leisure Park’!!! Most parents idea of hell but the kids adore it. Copious soft play, outdoor playgrounds, Toboggan runs and farm animals. It’s moved on a bit since my day but I always remember how excited we were to go. Oh and finally can I just say, you can’t walk down the high street without getting Roly’s fudge. My god, that stuff is good!!! xxx
Roly’s fudge! I think that’s a staple food in Totnes! It is unbelievably good.
Sounds like you love Totnes as me as me!
I live in Somerset so know of Totnes but have never been there! I will be taking my mum for mothers day after reading this post though, thank you!
It’s def the ideal place for a visit with your mum. Tea and cakes, shopping, spot of lunch, nice walk and more tea and cakes! Ideal day out in my books!
So much Cake!!!! Amazing tea shops x
Having holidayed in the Salcombe area for my whole childhood my mum relocated to East Prawle a few years ago – so I am now lucky enough to go down there several times a year. We love it so much we decided to get married in Dartmouth. It’s such a special place – if you get the weather you could be in the Caribbean, the beaches are beautiful! My favourite little gem is the Pigs Nose pub in East Prawle – have you sampled its delights Lottie? Run by an ex rocker from the 1970s it’s a crazy place, they have hat parties, live music and you often spot a celeb or two in there sampling a pint of the local Katy!
The Pigs Nose has a bit of a reputation as being a cool live music venue if memory serves? If you’re down to visit in the summer checkout the local festivals – Lemonfest, Glas-Denbury to name a couple. Same sort of local vibe but on a larger scale!
Lisa, the Pigs Nose is ACE!!! The most random place ever. As kids we weren’t really sure about it. After being dragged on a long cliff walk from Gara to Prawle we would often stop for sandwiches and a lemonade outside. You are lucky your mum lives there, it’s gorgeous. My aunty has a holiday cottage in East Portlemouth hence visiting lots. I agree that it is the most beautiful place in the world when the sun is shining. The beaches are amazing and love the atmosphere there. I instantly feel relaxed when I arrive. Maybe bump in to you in the Pigs Nose or on Mill Bay when we are down this summer! x
I have done that coastal walk so many times!! Yes, will see you either in the Pigs or on the beach…Sunny Cove is my absolute favourite. I did however spend large chunks of my childhood on Mill Bay making dams! xx
Totnes sounds so cool! Why have I never been? I love that is twinned with narnia too.
What are the best beaches nearby? Thinking or a camping trip at Easter now!
There are SO many beaches to pick from. I’d recommend grabbing a map (or google earth!) and exploring. There are obvious tourist beaches which are popular for a reason but if you head off the beaten track you might find a real gem.
As for camping there are some amazing campsites! Have fun!
Haha! This takes me back. I grew up in Totnes. We used to camp in the local woods and swim in the river at Dartington Hall. I understand it’s still a regular thing for the kids to do. Happy days.
Wild swimming is still really popular here. There are races to Dartmouth from Steamer Quay, which is a real sight. Hundreds of people piling into the river. Rather them than me!
I think wild camping is still allowed on the moors. I’m sure it still goes on in the local woods too. Doesn’t sound like too much has changed!
I live in a village just down the road from Totnes, is awesome here! There is a path from Dartington cider press to Dartington hall (where the White Hart pub is). Makes for a good walk if you have a buggy. Also recommend the Play station by the actual station if raining. Soft play is always carnage but they do really nice coffee and have a good outside area for running around if not pouring with rain.
In terms of beaches Broadsands is nice or further afield Blackpool sands is beautiful. If you fancy a proper bucket and spade experience you can’t beat Paignton beach. The water is very shallow and safe for little ones. I love living in Devon!
The Play Station is a life saver! And they do great cake!
I think the choice of beaches is amazing. Zip down the road to Paignton and the ‘English Riveria’ beaches or pootle down further into South Hams to Slapton and Blackpool Beach. Even if it’s cloudy & wet you’re guaranteed a great time. I might moan about the tourist traffic at times but I can unseat and why it’s so popular. It’s lovely here!
I’ve never been but Totnes sounds fab! We’ve been looking for a little UK getaway over Easter and this couldn’t have come at a better time. Might have a little scout around on Airbnb later 🙂
It’s definitely worth a visit, even if it’s just the once. There’s so much to see and do, it was impossible to include it all. It’s ideal as a quick getaway as its so close to the main road to Plymouth and from Exeter, it’s 3 hours on the train from Paddington and literally sandwiched between the moors and coast.
Ahhh this is where I am moving to! Can I add Sharpham vineyard to the things to do in Totnes list? It’s so lovely and in the summer you can walk along the river Dart (even do a bit of swimming if so inclined) to the vineyard and go wine tasting and then eat in their little cafe :-)… Just so nice
Sharpham Vineyard is lovely. I didn’t have space to include it in my write up which is a shame as its so picturesque! I also love Berry Pomeroy castle the other side of the river which also has fantastic walks and a lovely coffee shop!!