So far our ‘Reader Request’ feature has helped Tracey plan a trip to Croatia, given Gemma ideas to renovate her period house, advised Hannah in planning her kitchen and today we head back to vacation mode.
If you would like a helping hand to a interiors, travel, fashion or beauty dilemma then do head over to our ‘contact’ page and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise anything but we will do our best!
This week’s Reader Request comes from Fran who is about to embark on an amazing trip across Italy. Given all the extremely helpful recommendations I was given for my trip to Lake Garda earlier this year, it’s clear my love of Italy extends to you too. Over to Fran…
{Fran’s Request}
My husband and I have planned a two week trip to Italy in September. We have a ‘before babies bucket list’ and this is one of the trips we’ve wanted to do for a while. We figured there are lots of fun places we could have a lovely time with children when we’ve got them, but Venice, Rome and the Amalfi coast wouldn’t be quite as romantic with bambinos. We’ve booked all our accommodation, Air B’n’b just outside Venice, B&B in Rome and an apartment based on a friend’s recommendation in Nerano just by Sorrento from which to explore the coast. What we don’t know is what to do when we’re in these amazing places?! We don’t want to do all the touristy things just because the books tell us to. We want to experience the actual places themselves. So we want to know which touristy bits are worth doing, which restaurants we should try, what were people favourite parts so we can make the most of our time in these beautiful places.
I’m pretty sure the RMS readers can help 🙂
Thank you and lots of love, Fran xxx
I’m a teeny bit jealous over this itinerary. I’ve never visited the Amalfi Coast but it is firmly cemented on my holiday wishlist.
I visited Venice earlier this year and on arrival I was blown away by the view; incredible architecture, a plethora of boats and a vibrant bustling atmosphere. It was a bit of an impromptu trip so I have to admit I hadn’t done much research. After trekking over to the symbolic heart of Venice, Piazza San Marco we walked to the Grand Canal and then turned left past all the crowds to ambledown to Giardini Pubblici. In May the palm tree lined park it was practically deserted and provided a welcome break from the hoards of people. The views back over the lagoon are really impressive and we caught a water taxi back to the train station from just outside.
It’s been a while since I visited Rome. There were so many awesome sights to see that we didn’t venture off the tourist trail. My best piece of advice would be to pack your flats. You’ll be pounding the pavements so comfy shoes are a must!I would absolutely love to return. The image above (sourced from Cult Noise) has my heart in a flutter. Such a beautiful city!
Where would you suggest Fran visits on her epic trip to Italy? Any sights in Rome she must see? Any bars and restaurants in Venice? Any beautiful off-the beaten track villages on the Amalfi Coast? Please don’t make me too jealous…..
You must hire a small boat and travel up the cost of Amalfi. We hired from here http://www.amalfiboatrental.com/. We spent the day winding our way up to a small town on the end of the coast called Nerano. There are a couple of small restaurants who send out boats to collect you from your boat and take you to their restaurant for a long lazy lunch. We went to this restaurant http://www.ristorantemariagrazia.com/ you have to try their courgette pasta, a dish they invented and whatever else they think is good that day. It really is the most perfect way to spend a day exploring the stunning coast of Amalfi, romantic and action packed. Your husband will feel like a play boy driving that boat and you can sit and soak up the sunshine whilst feeling like a sex goddess!
Hi Jessica, we are staying in Nerano whilst we’re on the coast so will definitely try your restaurant suggestion. Hiring a boat for the day sounds amazing! Did you have any boating experience beforehand? We’ve looked at how to travel along the coast by bus but hadn’t though about hiring our own little boat. This is definitely going on the ‘must do’ list! Thank you! F x
I am so in love with Italy! I went backpacking round the country when I was at uni (Venice, Florence, Rome and Naples), visited Rome again a few years ago with the boy and have just got back from another trip with him to Venice and Florence.
A lot of people seem to think Venice is overrated, but I disagree! It’s such an amazing place. Like you, we ignored the touristy side. On our trip this year we spent our days wondering around, stopping to eat the ‘cicchetti’ (italian version of tapas), reading our books and drinking a lot of prosecco (cheap as chips out there!). This was our favourite thing to do. We did go to St Marks square, but we went in the evening so it wasn’t as manic, and just walked around. What I remembered from my uni trip was that a lot of restaurants were over priced and quite rubbish. So my advice would definitely to be to research restaurants and book ahead – you’ll find some really good ones. That’s what we did this year and our favourite by far was a restaurant called Osteria alle Testiere – it’s really small and does amazing seafood dishes. You’ll definitely need to book ahead (Luca Di Vita @ [osterialletestiere@yahoo.it]). It’s quite hard to find, but really worth it.
Also loved Rome, but can’t seem to remember what we did there. We did do an open bus tour, which is about as touristy as they come, but to get yourself used to a new city we thought it was great. And you can just hop on and off. I would also recommend the colosseum. We went on a guided tour which is worth it because there’s so much to know and also you get to skip the queue! And you don’t have to pay much more from the normal ticket either.
Are you getting about by trains? They run so well. Always on time! We booked ahead online – the websites are really easy to use. We really enjoyed the train journey’s between cities too. Got ourselves a nice bottle of red, some italian meats and cheeses and sat back and enjoyed the view.
Hope you have an amazing time!
Hi Sian,
Wow, lucky you with all those trips! My husband I spent a weekend in Florence at a wedding a couple of years ago and would love to go back but didn’t think we could cram it in this time.
I don’t see how Venice will be anything but magical. We really wanted to see it now in all it’s glory before they have to start working out new ways of keeping it afloat… I have a feeling that cicchetti and prosecco will feature highly in our list of favourite things to do. It hadn’t occured to me that we’d have to book ahead for restaurants so I’ll get on to that sharpish! Thank you for the recommendation, ‘really small’ and ‘amazing seafood’ has already sold it to me.
I’m glad to hear you felt the colosseum was worth a visit. My husband is a huge film buff so there’s no way I’d be allowed to deprive him of his Russell Crowe Gladiator moment. Thanks for the guided tour tip.
Yes we’re planning on getting trains from Venice to Rome and then from Rome to Naples and Sorrento. I’m hopefully going to get round to booking those this week. You’ve created a lovely image in my mind with the scenic journeys and snacks, thank you! F xxx
While I haven’t yet had the joy of visiting Venice or the Amalfi coast i was lucky enough to do a tour of Italy a few years ago starting in Rome to Spoleto, Siena, San Gimignano, Florence, a friend’s wedding in Certaldo and Pisa. It was INCREDIBLE and I am totally in love with Italy. Here are my hints for Rome. I know that this might seem really boring but one thing I would suggest to do early on would be a free walking tour or two! Rome is really spread out and you are going to do a lot of walking. We found it really handy to do the walking tours on the first day to give us a sense of direction and stop us wandering about aimlessly! The guides were really helpful and interesting too – very knowledgeable about history and architecture and giving you lots of insights you don’t get from a guide book. We used these guys but there are others available http://www.romefreewalkingtour.com/. This is my restaurant recommendation for Rome http://www.hiddenpalette.com/pizzeria-ai-marmi-trastevere-rome/ it’s an amazing pizza place in the student part of town, very popular with locals and really buzzy – it has a nickname of ‘the mortuary’ due to the huge marble tables that you sit around! We had the most delicious pizza’s here (one sausage meat and courgette flowers, one rocket and salted beef!) and it was really reasonably priced. It was a recommendation by one of our walking tour guides. Rome is brilliant and you’ll have an amazing time. On our last day in Rome we walked up to The Vatican for a final look around and the Pope was out and about in his Pope mobile which was exciting!
Oh and if there is any way you can extend your itinerary get to Siena (now one of my favourite places on earth!)
Hi Bryony,
A walking tour does sound like a good way to find our bearings. I will definitely look into one of those, maybe for the morning after we arrive.
I’m pretty sure my stomach just made an audiable noise when I clicked the link to the restaurant. I will look forward to eating from a huge marble table!
We’ve already booked our accomodation in each city so I don’t think we’ll be able to squeeze in a stop off in Siena unfortuantely. It looks so lovely. We went to a wedding just outside of Florence a few years ago and have wanted to go back ever since, so hopefully one day we’ll be able to do that and combine Siena with that trip. Thanks for your advice! F xxx
This sounds wonderful! Me and my fiance (husband THIS Saturday!!!) also backpacked around Italy (Venice / Florence / Rome / Sorrento / Salerno / Palermo) after Uni and celebrated our degree results on a beach in Sicily which was unforgettable!
We didn’t splash the cash alot as we were poor students however a few things I can remember (we went in 2006 so quite some time ago now):
In Rome – Osteria dell’Angelo, a lovely little restaurant near the Vatican which we found in the Rough Guide – owned by an ex-Italian Rugby player but only serving very traditional Italian food. We had some lovely food there and were able to walk straight in.
http://www.timeout.com/rome/rome/venue/1%3A6748/osteria-dellangelo
In Sorrento – you can get the train to both pompeii and herculaneum. We found that really interesting. You can also get a bus almost to the top of vesuvius and walk round the crater.
If you have any spare time and can get a boat out / stay on the aeolian island of Stromboli (although this is a holiday in itself) this is one of the most beautiful place i’ve ever stayed. The volcano erupts every half an hour and its an icnredible sight to see.
Have a lovely time!
I’ve stayed on Stromboli overnight and watched the eruptions in the dark and IT WAS AMAZING!!!
I would recommend this 100%
We stayed on the island of Lipari several years ago overlooking Stromboli. Totally agree, it’s an amazing sight to see the volcano erupting x
Hi Josie, awww your trip after uni sounds amazing, we would of loved to have seen more places if we had time but didn’t want to cram too much into two weeks. And congratulations on your wedding this Saturday! You must be so excited!
Do you think it’s worth going to Pompeii AND Herculaneum or did you think one was better than the other?
Wow, I’d never heard about Stromboli before and now I really want to go! We’re not going to have time on this trip, it’s quite a lot further down isn’t it? F xxx
Hi Fran,
Your trip sounds amazing!! I have only visited Rome, but would definitely suggest the Colosseum (we did the audio tour and it was great) and walking to the top of the Vatican – the views from the cupola are amazing!! Both are touristy and busy but definitely worth doing! My fiance organsied it as a surprise birthday weekend, we literally walked non-stop for the three days we were there (Lauren is right – comfy shoes are top priority!) but you get to see so much more that way.
For restaurants in Rome, Ad Hoc is simply amazing, out of this world food, tasting menus and a really romantic atmosphere! And Life Resturant was stunning as well, food and wine – just perfect!
Have a fabulous time,
Kate x
Hi Kate, what a lovely fiance you have! I’ve never done an audio tour, how did the Colosseum one you did compare to an actual person? We intend to do A LOT of walking so I’m going to invest in some Birkenstocks before we go, I have my eye on some gold ones 😉 Ad Hoc and Life Restaurant are both going on the research list, thank you. F xx
Oh ladies. Stop it! I’m so envious.
What an awesome trip Fran and her husband are going to have. You lovely lot are so well travelled 🙂 x
They are SO well travelled aren’t they?? Is it weird that I automatically trust all their opinions because they’re all RMS readers? xx
It’s not weird my love, it’s marvellous! Isn’t it lovely to have a fabulous bunch of like-minded ladies sharing recommendations and advice?
P.S can we all come with you 😉 x
Your website is beautiful with lots of lovely content. I will be stopping by again 🙂
Thanks Sara. We hope to see you again 🙂
We honeymooned in Rome (and then on to Tuscany), and have been to Venice with work a couple of times, and just love Italy so much! In Rome, I’d suggest trying to get tickets to go and visit the Villa Borghese, which has just beautiful art and grounds. I’d suggest getting a ‘Roma Pass’ card, as this gives you free (and priority) entrance to the first 2 sites (we used it for the Colosseum/Forum and beat the queues!), and free or discounted entrance to lots of museums. It also came with a map, and free access to the citys transport network for 3 days, which was invaluable! Don’t be afraid to wander off the main streets (you dont have to go too far!), as there are so many little restaurants on the side streets which are so atmospheric and a lot cheaper and nicer than the busy touristy venues (anyone say 7 euros for a litre jug of prosecco??!). Go to the Piazza Navonna and the next square along by the Pantheon at night time, the atmosphere is incredible.
With Venice, be prepared for things to be more expensive- so again, just by wandering a few streets you can get a lot better value. The coffee’s in the cafes around St Marks Square are amazing, but outrageously expensive!! They also do a Venice card, but not actually used that one, so don’t know if its value for money- probably good if you are staying slightly outside and want to use transport links.
hope that helps, and have an amazing time. Properly jealous, as next time we’ll be there, we WILL have a little one in tow!!! 😀
Hi Dani, what lovely job do you do that has taken you to Venice a couple of times? The ‘Roma Pass’ sounds brilliant, I will definitely look into that and the Venice version. A litre of prosecco for seven euros also sounds brilliant! I don’t think I’ll really believe it until I see it! Your comment has been so helpful, thank you. And big congratulations on your little one! F xxx
A colleague just came back from Rome and mentioned that the Trevi fountain is being repaired and is out of action all summer, just FYI 🙂
Ah what a shame! Thanks for letting me know Claire. F xx
Hi,
We went to Rome in May, and used these podcasts as audiotours for all the main sites and can’t recommend them enough. They are free and really help to make places like the Sistine Chapel & Colosseum come alive.
https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/audio-tours/italy
Also another tip is to prebook tickets for the Colosseum and Sistine Chapel online before you go to miss the mammoth queues that we saw. You just walk straight to the front with the prebooked tickets.
As far as restaurant recommendations I can recommend Formula Uno pizzeria which was great for cheap and delicious pizza!
Enjoy
Completely agree about the pre-booking! I was one of the un-prepared at the end of a massive queue! 🙁
Hi Candice, thanks for the audiotours links. Did you go on any human led tours that you could compare them with? I’m starting to think tours of the Sistine Chapel and Colosseum would definitely be worth while. Cheap and delicious pizza is exactly what we’re after 🙂 Thanks for the recommendation. F xxx
Hi Fran
Amazing trip! We got married in Ravello on the Amalfi Coast last year- it really is the most beautiful place I have ever been (hence why we chose to marry there). If you make it visit Villa Cimbrone- the views of the coastline don’t even look real. Enjoy your trip!
Hi Anna, congratulations on your wedding in Italy, I bet it was beautiful! We are hoping to get the bus to Ravello at some point during our week on the coast so I will definitely make a note to visit Villa Cimbrone. Is there anything else in Ravello that you’d recommend? Thanks for the tip! F xxx
Ohh my goodness, if you’re near sorrnto you must and I say MUST visit Pompeii & Herculaneum! It was breath taking. A restaurant in Sorrento as well is Buffalito – totally jaw dropping yum!
I just got back from Rome & as you might guess my fav bits were indeed the ancient ones but i have a super soft spot for Piazzao Navona, it’s stunning & with the Trevi fountain shut till late 2015 it offers 3 beautiful fountains to make your wishes in..! We also took a food tour around Rome which was incredible, http://www.eatingitalyfoodtours.com amazing guide & we drank the most stunning wine in a cellar older than the Colosseum!!
Ohh have the most amazing time! It’s truely tremendous! Xxx
P.s book the Vatican Museum tickets beforehand to avoid MASSIVE queues!
Hi Sundari, would you say it’s worth going to both Pompeii and Herculaneum, or was one considerably better than the other? Who needs he Trevi fountain when you can have THREE wishes Piazzao Navona?! You are second person to mention this place so it’s going on the ‘must do’ list. I don’t know how we would choose between those food tours, my mouth is watering just reading about them! Thank you for your lovely tips, I’m getting so excited!! F xxx
Amalfi coast sadly have not been to (yet) and Rome I’ve only done the taxi on a business trip tour (and the view from imago at the hassler is amazing but $$$)… However venice I have plenty advice, most of which is not to plan, to take trainers and enjoy the prosecco as often as you can!!
Hi Anna, I love your advice for Venice. I will be investing in some Birkenstocks before I go and will be aiming to try as many different proseccos as possible! Thank you xxx
my tips would be….
1) venice – as someone above mentioned, don’t plan. venice is much smaller than you might imagine and is easily covered on foot. get a good street map and just walk. get away from the crowds and get lost. soak up the sights. you will always be able to find your way back or jump on the water bus on the grand canal.
2) amalfi coast. our favourite trips were pompeii and positano. all over this region we found amazing food and the friendliest, most helpful locals.
3) rome – its been some time since i went to rome, but it is still, hands down, one of the most beautiful cities i have ever seen. you will want to do the touristy sights because they are the sights for a reason. but don’t forget, most people go to the vatican, bypass pretty much the entire museum and just go straight to the sistine chapel. same with the colosseum, i had the forum pretty much to myself. and don’t miss the pantheon – it is stunning!
have fun!
I’ve never been to Venice but for our honeymoon we did a Tuscan / Amalfi tour (in five days!)
Positano on the Amalfi coast is very pretty, park at the bottom and walk up the hill to get the views over the sea. Super beautiful and I’d say definitely worth a visit.
I’ve been to Rome a few times and I have to say there are far nicer places in Italy to visit. It is nice to do the little touristy bits though, we went on a horse and carriage ride round the city which was quite fun and nice not to have to shuffle like sheep!
I totally agree with Bryony above if you can go to Siena it is a must! The most wonderful city and the best meal there beating any 5***** hotel we stayed in. If you do go, I’ll try and look up the name of the restaurant.
Have an amazing time and drink lots of prosecco!
Hello! We got married in Sorrento in May and we had the best 2 weeks of our lives exploring the Amalfi Coast during our stay. Agree with the comments above, Pompeii was fascinating. Wander down to Marina Grande one evening and try the beautiful seafood at Ristorante Bagni Delfino – beautiful! I wouldn’t recommend hiring a car, the drivers nerves will be wrecked! Get the bus and both can enjoy the views and get off at whatever towns you fancy. Positano, Ravello & Amalfi are all stunning. I don’t see how anyone could not love this part of the world – enjoy! Ciao!
Have absolutely loved reading all these comments. You are going to have an amazing time Fran. Enjoy! x
This will sound really dull and sorry for being like the mum of the group – but watch out for your bags, wallets, purses, cameras etc in Rome! I haven’t been but my sister got her purse pick pocketed when she went despite (she says) keeping a close eye on her bag and keeping it closed/zipped etc.